Some dream vacations reveal how deeply travel experiences are shaped by the traveler. My husband and I wanted a more romantic vacation; we prefer a slower pace and the feeling of traveling in time, so we sailed on the flagship Queen Mary 2 (QM2) of the Cunard Line.
The Queen Mary 2 is the only cruise liner in active service today, and it has a legendary aura. It is designed to navigate the open North Atlantic safely and often between New York City and Southampton, England. A true queen of the oceans!
After a couple of lovely days visiting New York City, we departed from the Brooklyn pier on a week-long journey to Halifax, NS, stopping in Newport, RI, and Boston, MA, where the cruise line hosted a 4th of July celebration.
My husband kept calling the QM2 the Titanic! I figured it was because of its shape and the grandness. The QM2 has the look of an imposing ship, not so much a resort-like ship like the newer cruise ships. Also, because of its black, white, and red trim. It is truly a nostalgic dream. In our cabin, a bottle of wine awaited us, and we noticed the company’s emblem, which feels royal with its golden crest, heraldic lion, and laurel wreath, truly indulging us in the elegance of grand ocean liners.
It was a bit interesting for us to celebrate our country’s independence aboard a beloved British ship. But everything was well planned, including a hamburger-and-hot-dog feast to watch the Boston fireworks from the upper deck. A large screen was set up so we could listen to the Boston Pops, the renowned summer and popular-music offshoot of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. This way, passengers didn’t have to venture into crowded downtown Boston. I wish we had planned it better and taken the cruise line shuttle into downtown.
Most of the action and clubs on the ship are on the lower decks, and our cabin was midship on deck 12, a short walk from the Pavilion Pool. This covered pool has a bar and ping pong tables, and we almost had the place to ourselves. We enjoyed stepping out onto the wrap-around deck for leisurely strolls around the ship, much like the passengers on the Titanic. But for additional entertainment, the QM2 boasts the beautiful Empire Casino, designed with Monte Carlo casinos in mind.
We live in South Texas, with close proximity to Galveston, which is becoming a mega cruise port. But all the cruises sailing out of Galveston visit the western Caribbean. It makes no sense to us to book a cruise in the summer months, when families travel with lots of kids, when it’s hurricane season, and when the heat is overwhelming for enjoying the ship’s outdoor activities. In the summer, we look for cooler alternatives.
We wanted to visit the northeast coast, where the ocean surf strikes the opulent cliffs, and the mist from the ocean caresses. And we experienced just that when we visited The Breakers, the Gilded Age mansion in Newport, built in 1895 as a summer residence for Cornelius Vanderbilt II. I felt like a heroine in a romantic novel as I strolled across its lawn, facing the ocean, feeling the breeze, and hearing the waves breaking against the cliffs. It was pure magic!
But a cruise like this is not how most people I know envision a cruise voyage. The QM2, as majestic as it is, offers more classic entertainment, like ballroom dancing, in its incredible Art Deco-style dance hall. Live music consisted of violin ensembles, harpists, and pianists. Sometimes, I would walk to the atrium to listen to the pianist and notice several people enjoying a good nap. It was not lively by any means. For the most part. But that is not something that bothers me. I was on a trip back in time, where romance blooms and the ocean serenades. My imagination ran wild when I stepped out onto the deck and could not see the ocean because of the heavy fog. The ship’s foghorn emanated a mysterious sound that mesmerized me. The chilly breeze seemed to be there only for me.
I highly recommend a cruise to the Northeast and Canada, but if you prefer a more party-like atmosphere, choose another cruise line. If you are a romantic who loves to read books and quiet moments to yourself, the QM2 is the right fit. And speaking of books, the QM2’s library has the largest book collection at sea. The wood paneling and glass-fronted bookshelves, the leather chairs, and incredible ocean views make it the best I’ve ever seen on a cruise. There is something to be said for watching professional ballroom dancers with a live orchestra playing melodies made famous by Glenn Miller, among others. I don’t know of any other place where I can experience this. We met a couple of dancers who own and operate a dance studio in Texas, who said they only travel to dance. And they danced every night!
Because there is so much we enjoyed on this trip, I’m posting bullet points for anyone who might be interested in a cruise with the QM2 or a cruise to the Northeast.
Our Pros:
1- The ship. It is majestic with a quiet, refined elegance. Surrounded by photographs of British royalty and famous figures who set sail on either the original Queen Mary or the Queen Mary 2. The photographs celebrate the line’s 180-plus-year heritage. To me, an architecture fanatic, the ship’s Art Deco design is classy and beautiful, and the perfect setting for a cruise visiting Newport’s Gilded Age mansions.
One of our favorite activities on the ship was the Afternoon Tea. It begins with a formal procession of waiters wearing immaculate white gloves marching to the music performed by the cruise’s string quartet. They move around, pouring hot, fine-leaf teas into patrons’ cups. Tables are set with bone china and crisp white linens. The live music continues throughout, and the traditional cucumber and mint sandwiches, scones, and other delicious delicacies are served. Many passengers dress for the occasion. Set inside the ballroom, the event is a quintessentially British maritime tradition.
2- The elegant service and attention. The linens, the table settings, the staff uniform, everything is done elegantly. The food was sometimes bland, but always fresh and beautifully presented. I did miss hot sauces and more spice.
3- Meeting like-minded travelers who adore the QM2. About 300 British travelers arrived on the ship from Southampton to continue their week-long journey to Halifax, then back to Southampton. Many others boarded in Brooklyn like us. It was a mostly senior adult group. Because it was the 4th of July, I thought there would be a younger crowd. We met very interesting people. One day, we attended a presentation about the history and architecture of the Gilded Age mansions in the ship’s theater. It was fantastic! That evening, as we were enjoying a late dinner, the waiter brought a couple to sit at the table near ours. I immediately recognized the architect and author who gave the presentation. His name is Phillip James Dodd from Connecticut. He is the author of An American Renaissance: Beaux-Arts Architecture in New York City, with a foreword written by Julian Fellowes, creator of Downton Abbey. We had an amazing time listening to the stories about the making of his book.
4- Newport is a dream destination. It is the quintessential American architecture destination. I loved the modest colonial architecture as much as I loved the magnificence of the Gilded Age mansions. The setting by the ocean is dreamy with sailboats lined in the marina. We visited St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, where JFK and Jackie were married. The historic Trinity Church of 1726, where we learned about wooden box pews designed to keep parishioners warm during harsh colonial winters. The pews were also sold as real estate. All very interesting.
5- Boston for the 4th of July. Just perfect with its beautiful harbor and delicious lobster rolls. We took a walking tour of the historic Freedom Trail with sites such as Boston Common, Old State House, Quincy Market, and the Granary Burying Ground, where Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and the victims of the Boston massacre are buried. A highlight for my husband was visiting the Cheers bar that inspired the famous TV series.
6- Halifax for its wonderful Seaport with museums, shops, restaurants serving Poutine, and great views of the ocean. But the most special place was Peggy’s Cove, about a 45-minute drive from the pier. It is something out of a movie with the waves splashing agsinst the rocky banks that hold its picturesque lighthouse.
7- Brooklyn pier. Sailing out of Brooklyn was easy, and with no heavy traffic. We arrived a couple of days early so we could walk the Brooklyn Bridge. It was a bit warmer than we expected, but we truly enjoyed it. We also boarded a boat to Liberty Island to admire the Statue of Liberty up close. We had always seen it from a distance, but this time we thought about the many immigrants who came in through that harbor and admired the colossal statue. They came by a transatlantic ship, just like we were getting ready to board but on a more modern version.
Our Cons:
1- I do not think there were things that I would consider a really bad con, but the food was bland. I heard other passengers complain of the same thing.
2- The passenger demographic. The voyage attracted primarily older travelers from the United States and Britain. We enjoy more culturally diverse crowds and hearing a wider range of languages and perspectives.
3- There is a very nice club, and we went for Disco Night, but it was the silent type of Disco Night. We are not into that concept. Maybe it was because the club is next to the ballroom, and they did not want the disco music to interfere with the ballroom dance music.
4- The entertainment could have been livelier. On our last day, we went bar hopping, and as we walked into the Golden Lion Pub, the violins were playing just like in the Titanic! The situation made me laugh out loud, and I decided to just go with the flow and enjoy it.
It was a magical time, and we have great memories. We scratched off a bucket list item and are grateful for this blessing. We hope to return to the Northeast someday, but sailing on the QM2 was a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that reminded us that travel is not about popular destinations, but about fulfilling dreams and memorable journeys.
We planned this 4th of July cruise a year before the country’s 250th anniversary, thinking this year would be more expensive and crowded. It was a good choice.
I wish everybody a wonderful 4th of July, and may God bless America.
May our travels continue to enlighten our lives.
